Signs it's time to replace your radiator hose(s)

1. Electrochemical Degradation (ECD)

This is the number one cause of hose failures.  ECD is the breakdown of material in the hose wall or tube due to electrical reactions between the fluid (coolant) and the metal parts of the engine. The cause of ECD is primarily a function of electrolysis based on the materials in the system (such as the hose, block, head, and radiator) and the chemistry of the coolant. Velocity of the coolant in the hose along with temperature may have a tendency to contribute to ECD, while modern forms of coolant seem to have similar affect regarding ECD. The ECD manifests itself by degrading the hose’s inner tube, allowing the coolant to start attacking the reinforcement, which in turn will lead to a hose rupture

Testing for ECD: Use your thumb and finger to squeeze the hose near the connectors.  ECD initially attacks within 2 inches of the ends of the hose.  if the ends feel more soft and mushy than the middle or if you feel gaps or channels inside the hose.  It is most likely under attack from ECD and requires replacement.

2. Leakage
 If you notice moisture drips or coolant bleed marks on or around the hose clamps, connectors or on the hose itself you have a leaking hose. It's time to replace!








3. Heat Damage

Look for slight swelling of the hose.  A hardened, glossy cover accompanied by cracks is a certain sign of heat damage to a hose.









4.  Ozone Damage

Look for tiny parallel cracks in the cover.  It will usually be visible at hose bends








5. Abrasion Damage

Look for rubbing marks or visible damage to the exterior of the hose.









6. Oil Conamination

If the hose feels soft or spongy to the touch and or bulges and swelling is apparent, the hose has become compromised and is on it's way to failing.

New Product Release


1972-1973 TRIUMPH STAG ALUMINUM RADIATOR

MADE IN THE USA!


Direct fit radiator, bolt in replacement radiator for a 1972-1977 Triumph Stag

  • Direct fit radiator
  • 16 Fins per inch
  • Filler neck is machined from a solid aluminum billet
  • No epoxy, fully furnace brazed
  • Fully TIG welded
  • 100% MADE IN THE USA

BUY ONLINE CLICK LINKS BELOW:
1972 STAG RADIATOR
1973 STAG RADIATOR



New Product Release :1953-1956 Ford Pickup Truck Radiator, Flathead V8 Engines

ALL ALUMINUM 3 ROW RADIATOR FOR 1953-1956 FORD TRUCKS WITH FLATHEAD V8 ENGINES

Ford Truck 1953-56 V8 Flathead
100% welded, no epoxy

Core Dimensions: 20 x 23
Overall Dimensions: 26 1/4 x 26 3/4 (h x w) Including Cap
Hose Locations: In - Dual, Out - Dual
Core Thickness: 2
Tanks: 3-1/2
Rows: 3
Tank Construction: Aluminum
Core Construction: Aluminum
Inlet Diameter: 1 1/4
Outlet Diameter: 1 3/4
TOC: YES
EOC: NA 
Mount: BRACKET MOUNT
Vert - 18 1/2 Horizontal - 24 7/8

BUY NOW

2014-2017 CHEVY / GM CONDENSER WIDESPREAD FAILURE OEM 23141861, 84211191

GM has reported that AC condensers on it's 2014-2017 Yukon, Pickup, Suburban, Tahoe and even some Cadillac Escalades are failing on a mass scale at the same time and in the same place.

The failure is due to a bad weld in the original unit.  If you have one of these vehicle and the AC is still working, brace yourself as you will be encountering an issue sooner than later.

Currently, GM dealerships have recalled all of their faulty inventory and will not have replacements in stock until after the summer.  Yes, that leaves thousands of people with new vehicles sweating it out this summer.

From what we have found out, the condensers are not being warranted through GM and if/when they get them in stock, they are charging a whopping $1,000 ea for them.

We did not realize this was a widespread issue until dealerships starting ordering bulk from us.

Due to this demand, we have been filling back orders to both retail and shop customers via RadiatorExpress.com

Items are taking 5-10 days to ship due to the back up, but we do have them and will be charging only $197 for the unit.

We have included an illustration of the item below and the applications it fits.  The issue with the GM weld has been corrected by a reinforced aluminum weld.


CLICK HERE TO BUY ONLINE

The condensers fits the following vehicles,

Dealer Part Number: 23141861, 84211191 

015 CADILLAC ESCALADE 6.2L, V8 (GAS)
2016 CADILLAC ESCALADE 6.2L, V8 (GAS)
2017 CADILLAC ESCALADE 6.2L, V8 (GAS)
2014 CHEVROLET SILVERADO 1500 5.3L, V8 (GAS)
2014 CHEVROLET SILVERADO 1500 6.2L, V8 (GAS)
2015 CHEVROLET SILVERADO 1500 5.3L, V8 (GAS)
2015 CHEVROLET SILVERADO 1500 6.2L, V8 (GAS)
2016 CHEVROLET SILVERADO 1500 5.3L, V8 (GAS)
2016 CHEVROLET SILVERADO 1500 6.2L, V8 (GAS)
2015 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN 5.3L, V8 (GAS)
2016 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN 5.3L, V8 (GAS)
2017 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN 5.3L, V8 (GAS)
2015 CHEVROLET TAHOE 5.3L, V8 (GAS)
2016 CHEVROLET TAHOE 5.3L, V8 (GAS)
2017 CHEVROLET TAHOE 5.3L, V8 (GAS)
2014 GMC SIERRA 1500 5.3L, V8 (GAS)
2014 GMC SIERRA 1500 6.2L, V8 (GAS)
2015 GMC SIERRA 1500 5.3L, V8 (GAS)
2015 GMC SIERRA 1500 6.2L, V8 (GAS)
2016 GMC SIERRA 1500 5.3L, V8 (GAS)
2016 GMC SIERRA 1500 6.2L, V8 (GAS)
2015 GMC YUKON 5.3L, V8 (GAS)
2015 GMC YUKON 6.2L, V8 (GAS)
2016 GMC YUKON 5.3L, V8 (GAS)
2016 GMC YUKON 6.2L, V8 (GAS)
2017 GMC YUKON 5.3L, V8 (GAS)
2017 GMC YUKON 6.2L, V8 (GAS)
2015 GMC YUKON XL 5.3L, V8 (GAS)
2015 GMC YUKON XL 6.2L, V8 (GAS)
2016 GMC YUKON XL 5.3L, V8 (GAS)
2017 GMC YUKON XL 5.3L, V8 (GAS)
2017 GMC YUKON XL 6.2L, V8 (GAS)



Surge Tank Leaks

Surge Tank leaks

Surge tanks, and the components associated with them, are prone to failure. A leak in one of these components in applications where the tank mounts above or alongside the radiator can easily look like a radiator leak from the coolant dripping down onto the radiator.

Perceived Leaking Radiators
with surge tanks in these positions, regardless of plastic or metal construction, must have the tank
and hoses inspected before determining the radiator to be defective, or at fault.

With truck and bus applications utilizing surge tanks, we often will see return claims that in fact end up being brand new radiators.  Before going through the effort to remove and claim a radiator defective, be sure to check out the surge tank!



PRODUCT ANNOUNCEMENT: 2003-2004 CHEVY S10, GMC S15 PLASTIC OEM GAS TANK, OEM 15171784

We are proud to announce the arrival of a dealer OEM replacement for the 03-04 S10 Pickup.   This item had been discontinued by the dealership and unattainable for quite some time.

Dealer Part Number: 15171784

Item will retail on RadiatorExpress.com for $500.00.

item fits the following applications with original plastic gas tanks:

Chevy Pick Up S10 Series 2003-2004,
GMC Pickup S15 Series,
4DR CREW CAB, Sonoma 2003-2004, GMC
Sonoma 2003-2004,
Isuzu Hombre 2003-2004,



Installing an External Power Steering Cooler in a 2010 Ford F150

My last article diagnosed my issue of a leaking power steering cooler on my 2010 Ford F150.   To those who have not read it, the power steering cooler happened to be built into the top area of my AC condenser which left me with what seemed to be an expensive repair.  (Replace condenser, recharge system).

here is a link to that article for reference:

http://www.radiatorhelpline.com/2016/11/power-steering-leak-diagnosis-Ford-F150.html

Seeing as I was feeling quite cheap during this holiday season and have a very needy gluten free girlfriend, I decided to go for gold and purchase an external power steering cooler and install it myself.  I figured since the AC condenser was working fine, this would be a perfect way to bypass this issue.

Of course I purchased my external cooler from my employers website, RadiatorExpress.com
They offer multiple sizes online from 10,12,15,18 inch coolers.  They offer both the flat radiator type of coolers as well as the round cylinder type external coolers.

12 inch Round Cooler

As you can see from my illustration, I went for the 12 inch round cooler.  I can't for the life of me tell you which would be more efficient, but there is something plain sexy about the round cooler and for a $50 price tag I couldn't resist.

The 12 inch cooler comes with 2 NPT fittings that are listed to be 1/4 inch, but seemed to be close to 3/8.

The cooler that is built into the AC condenser has 2 fittings.  top line (Intake) is 1/2 inch while the bottom is 3/8.

To make this transition work, I knew the bottom line would be ok, but we'd need to step the top hose down to fit the cooler.

Supplies to change the top hose:


Home Depot, Plumbing Isle (#12)

3/8 in ID x 3/8 in MIP
with a Coupling raccord, 3/8 FIP
connected to 1/2 " x 3/8 MP Barb

As you can see from the illustration, the 2 fittings attached by the coupling raccord takes the line size and steps it down to what we'll need for the top hose.


For mounting I went with a couple basic metal extensions that I found from the framing isle in Home Depot in case I needed to drop the cooler when installing.



Once I got to work, the hood latch bolt was screaming for me to use it.  that's one less hole I need to drill and was a nice spot for me to test if the cooler was going to stick out too much.  I began by removing this bolt and securing the cooler.  A quick test of the hood and we were a no go.  the cooler was not going to clear the hood in this spot.  Thankfully I had those little metal frame extension pieces and went right to work installing one off the existing hood latch and another by drilling into the frame on the other side.  I did make sure to mount the cooler on the latch side and place it level across the condenser to gauge the correct spot for our other mounting location.

Once I had the other mounting extension installed, I secure the cooler and it was off to figuring a way to get the hoses in to place.

The bottom hose for the power steering is very flexible and I knew this one would be a breeze, so of course I started there.  Using a flat head screw driver and pliers, I removed the hose from the condenser.  I was able to then just pull the hose to the front and attach it right to the external cooler.  EASY PEASY, this was going great.  Some teflon tape and a hose clamp and I was in business with a perfectly connected power steering return line.

Now to the hard part.. the upper line.  This line is completely metal and form fitted into place.  I used the same method with the pliers and screw driver to get the hose disconnected, but this hose didn't want to move.. as hard as I jammed at it, I could not bend or move it.  I went up top and found a section of hose where I could cut the line and proceeded to saw it apart.  

I attached my home depot step down connection from the 1/2 to the 3/8.  I did need some additional hose and ended up cutting some off my air compressor in this case.  I knew that was rated to at least a couple hundred PSI which should be enough for this cooler.  If you need to find a hose, I would suggest an auto supply store.  Home depot did have some 55 PSI clear hose in the right size in the plumbing isle, but i was not too confident in using that.

With the new hose in place, I could run it right to the top line and clamp in place.



Of course before attaching the NPT fittings to my cooler, i added teflon tape..  This is important as I did experience some slight leaking from the cooler upon initial install and was able to really tighten down to stop it having protected the thread.


 I topped off the power steering fluid and started the vehicle.  I ran for a couple minutes through what sounded like a terrible crying noise, then added an another bottle of fluid to compensate for what was probably lost from bypassing the existing cooler.  The vehicle seemed to really suck up the extra fluid and after some turning of the wheel seemed to ease up on the noises.  Once what I figured were air bubbles were out of the system, she was purring like a kitten.





Here is a picture of the cooler with the hood closed.  The 12 inch cooler mounted from the hoot latch really is as large as you can go.  there are some supports in the hood and this cooler just clears as if it was meant to be there.  I would assume if you want to use a longer cooler you would then need to drill the extension brackets on both sides to center the cooler so that the hood will close.





A quick power wash was also in order as the cooler in the AC condenser was still leaking the additional fluid that was left inside.  In fact, I had drips for a couple of days as it cleared out.  I suggest your keeping an eye on your power steering fluid level as you monitor this weeping to be sure you don't have an active leak.  I used some boxes under the truck to keep an eye on things for a week or so as well as protect my driveway as things cleaned up.


Below is a quick summary of the parts required for the job.

6 small clamps
3 fittings
teflon tape
3 feet high pressure hose
Pliers
Screwdriver
Ratchet
Drill
extension brackets
sheet metal screws
Extra power steering fluid